今天我們兩個都睡得很晚,十點左右才醒(可見我們一路上都多早起),要不是Dustin起來我大概還可以繼續睡,但要不是尿濕褲子Dustin恐怕也不會起來…沒錯,醒來之前Dustin一直夢到自己到處找廁所,最後終於找到廁所並尿出來,霎時感到兩腿之間的熱度,馬上醒來跑去廁所。真高興我們有兩張床…
We both didn't get up until pretty late, around 10 (so you know we had been early risers). Had not Dustin got up, I would have kept sleeping. But had not he wet his pants, he probably would have kept sleeping and dreaming too... That's right. Before waking up, Dustin was dreaming about finding bathrooms all the time, and he finally found one, and that was when he felt the warm liquid trickling between his thighs. So he got up and rushed to the toilet. I was so glad we had two beds...
我們沖了澡(天氣太熱沖澡再出門可以幫忙降低體溫一陣子),出門吃早餐,Dustin說他昨晚跟Anthony約了11點去他們的海邊渡假別墅見面,現在我們可以快快走去赴約,也可以先吃早餐再慢慢晃過去,反正已經是遲了。我們當然選擇先吃早餐,於是走到昨天晚餐考慮的其中一間餐廳,Dustin點的早餐有蛋、有豆泥、有tortilla chips跟乳酪,但他並不滿意。
We showered (it was too hot, so taking a shower before going out could help reduce body temperatures) and then went to get some breakfast. Dustin said he told Anthony to meet at 11am in front of their villa at the beach, so we could either try to get there and be a little late, or eat our breakfast and take our time to get there, anyways we were already late. Of course we decided to have breakfast first. So we walked to one of the restaurants where we had thought about having dinner last night. What Dustin ordered had two eggs, mashed beans, tortilla chips, and queso, but he wasn't satisfied with it.
我點了enchiladas,比Oaxaca Ciudad傳統市場裡面那個好多了,有很多蔬菜跟乳酪。
I ordered enchiladas, which was way better than the one I ordered at the traditional market in Oaxaca Ciudad, with lots of vegetables and queso.
隔壁坐了一個德國佬,跟女朋友來渡假,女朋友天天去上瑜伽課,他就自己閒逛。不知道為什麼每次他要點東西女服務生都正好沒聽到,所以他有點不爽…
A German dud was sitting next to us. He was on vacation with his girlfriend, who took yoga class everyday. We didn't know why everytime when he tried to order something, the waitress always walked away and didn't hear him, so he was kinda pissed...
我們背後的餐廳一角。
A corner of the restaurant.
等餐點的時候看到當地的學生在等校車,校車來了以後讓我非常吃驚,原來他們是這樣搭校車的…好可憐。
When ordering, we saw local students waiting for school bus. After the school bus came, I was very surprised to see how they fit in there...
吃完以後我們就慢慢沿海灘朝南行,一路上就像走在那個我們最喜歡的早餐店老婦人準備早餐的大平底爐上一樣,腳丫差點被沙子燙熟…沒多久我們就趕快投降走到浪花沖上岸的那部份。大概20多分鐘以後抵達最南端,背後就是一棟棟高級渡假別墅,但我們不知道要怎麼過去也不知道到底是哪棟,Dustin決定先在這裡游泳,Anthony應該會從別墅那看到我們。我不能下水,就乖乖在海灘上吃我的芒果(買了這麼多天終於吃了!)。果然沒多久Anthony就出現了,帶我們回到他朋友的別墅。
After breakfast, we walked towards the south. It was like walking on the big flat pan with which the old lady cooked food at our favorite breakfast place in Oaxaca Ciudad, our feet burned by the hot sand... So we surrendered and walked on the wet sand washed by waves. About 20-some minutes later, we arrived at the very south. Behind us was many fancy vacation villas. But we didn't know how to get there or which villa Anthony was at, so Dustin decided to swim for a bit and hoped that Anthony would see us from the villa. I couldn't get into the water, so I stayed on the beach and finally started to have the mangos I bought days ago in Oaxaca Ciudad. Anthony showed up a moment later and brought us back to his friend's villa.
設計得很有品味,看得出來為什麼他們都只想成天待在別墅裡。不過不是我想要的旅遊,這種有錢人渡假方式只要有別墅對我來說在哪都一樣,我比較有興趣的是看當地人怎麼生活,都做些什麼。
Good taste. I could see why they'd all want to stay there all day. But it wasn't what I wanted for my vacation. As long as you have a villa, you can have this vacation anywhere. I'm more interested in seeing how locals live their lives and what they do.
Dustin跟Anthony聊了一個下午的天,Anthony的朋友也對我們不錯,離開炙熱的陽光跑來避暑一陣相當不錯,不過後來玩骰子遊戲時我已經有點按捺不住想走人了…沒多久我們就跟他們道別,再度踏上沙灘。
Dustin hung out with Anthony the whole afternoon, and Anthony's friends were nice to us. Staying out of the scorching sun and relaxing in the shade for a while was nice, but I became a bit impatient when we started to play the dice game... Not long after that, we said goodbye to them and stepped on the sand again.
到處可以看到的墨西哥國旗。
Mexican flags are everywhere.
這張似乎是我所有親友最喜歡的照片,照片名為S, M, L, XL。走在沙灘上我一看到趕快叫Dustin,不過等到跟她們擦身而過以後我才敢轉身拍照…
This picture titled "S, M, L, XL" seems to be the number 1 among all my family and friends. As soon as I saw these ladies, I called Dustin to watch, but I didn't dare to take pictures until we passed them.
接著Dustin一時興起就坐下來對著夕陽及大海彈奏他的ukulele唱歌。
Then Dustin picked a spot to sit down and played his ukulele and sang to the sunset.
我開始玩相機。
I started to play with my camera.
夕陽無限好
Sunset's always beautiful.
拍了半天跳了大概十次才成功,不是我不會跳,是Dustin有抓秒障礙…
We tried about 10 times to finally have this shoot. It's not that I didn't know how to jump, but that Dustin had timing problem.
夕陽落入海裡,我們也收拾行囊繼續往回北行。走前Dustin挖了一個沙坑然後趴著尿尿…
When the sun finally sank into the ocean, we also started to pack our stuff and head back to the north, after Dustin dug a hole in the sand to pee...
路上發現一隻大螃蟹,Dustin又想抓又怕被螃蟹用鉗子夾傷,最後成功抓到螃蟹而且沒有被夾傷,不過拍了很智障的照片。後來螃蟹逃脫時我們倆都一面跳一面大叫,超怕被螃蟹報復XD
We found a big crab. Dustin wanted to catch it but was also afraid of being stung by it. In the end he succeeded without being hurt and took a moron picture with it. When the crab got away, we both jumped and screamed, for we were so afraid of being revenged by the crab. XD
我們走著走著就走進夜幕的領域了,整片海灘都黑濛濛的。突然右前方有人從遠方慢慢接近我們,我們都立刻警覺,但不知道該怎麼辦,我心裡緊張地要命,偷偷罵Dustin幹嘛非要拖到天黑才走…為什麼回去的路走起來比來的時候還要長…我們加快腳步,超越了那個人,前方駛來一輛巡邏的沙灘車,我鬆了一口氣,但還是不斷回頭看。後來我們真正走遠了,Dustin說他一開始不敢讓那人知道他看到他了,後來才想到應該直視對方,讓對方知道我們已經發現他了,最好不要輕舉妄動。
We walked into the nightfall, the whole beach darkened. Suddenly someone on our right was approaching us. We were alerted right away but didn't know what to do. I was very nervous and secretly blamed Dustin for not leaving the beach until it was dark... Why was the way back so much longer than the way there... We hurried up and surpassed that guy. A patrolling ATV drove towards us, and I felt a little relieved, but I kept turning my head to check. When we finally walked further, Dustin said at the beginning he didn't dare to let that guy know that he saw him, but later he figured he should've just looked into that guy's eyes and let him know that we knew that he was there, so he'd better not do anything stupid.
原本肚子就很餓,被嚇過以後更覺得路途漫長,等到終於回到燈火通明的商店街附近,才真正感到安全。
I was already hungry, after being scared, the road seemed to become even longer. I didn't feel safe until we got close to the well-lit area with all the stores.
我們回hostal洗了個澡,然後出來覓食,發現Mango餐廳的特餐真的天天不一樣(本來我們懷疑該不會天天都是一樣的特餐),所以昨天選擇那條炸全魚果然是對的!走來走去最後選了一間位於沙灘上的漢堡店(可見我們對tortillas跟豆子都有點膩了)。
We went back to the hostal to shower again and went out for dinner. We found that Mango restaurant indeed had different specials everyday (we suspected that they might have the same specials everyday), so we were happy about making the right choice of ordering that fried fish yesterday. Finally we decided to eat at a burger store on the beach (we were getting tired of tortillas and beans).
一個漢堡只要25 pesos,我點了雞肉漢堡,材料豐富,有生菜、蕃茄、起司片、培根、一片大火腿及被那片大火腿遮住的厚片雞肉!非常好吃!
Each burger was only 25 pesos. I got a chicken burger. Lots of food, lettuce, tomato slice, cheese slice, bacon, a big slice of ham, and a piece of think chicken hidden behind that ham! Very delicious!
而且小店外面的稻草棚很有特色~
Also the palapa (palm leaf roof) was cool!
親切可愛的漢堡店老闆
The friendly nice owner.
路上停的酷車,正面是墨西哥國旗圖案,老鷹抓蛇。還記得Meyer跟淑婷帶我去領簽證的時候,我們在領事館看到還以為是公雞抓蚯蚓…XD
A cool car parked on the street with Mexican flag on its front, an eagle clutching a snake. I remember when Meyer and his wife took me to get my Mexico visa, we saw this at the consulate and thougth it was a chicken clutching an earth worm... XD
這天晚上Dustin帶了酒精飲料(Dustin很可憐,到現在我一直都沒陪他喝過)、ukulele(但忘了帶打火機)到海邊,我們觀察了附近的美麗女孩、美麗女孩的不友善男友、另一個身材不錯的女友、另一個穿著粉色的超大號黑人女友,開始造口業。還有關於他跟他好兄弟的軼事。海浪還是依然兇猛嚇人又令人陶醉,是我一輩子也看不膩的風景。
Tonight Dustin brought alcohol (I kinda felt bad for him since I hadn't drunk with him till now) and ukulele (but forgot to bring his lighter) to hang out on the beach. We observed a pretty girl, the pretty girl's unfriendly boyfriend, another girlfriend with good body, and another black girlfriend in pink XL dress, talking mean things. He also told me lots of stories of him and Beaver, such as the hot bartender whom Beaver claimed to be in love with, and lots of dirty jokes they made about sex. The waves were still horrifying yet intoxicating. I'd never get tired of watching them.
後來我跑去看小海龜,發現又孵了好多隻出來,有一隻還翻不了身一直掙扎很可愛。
After a while, I went to the conservation nest to check if any sea turtles were hatched. There were! And plenty! One was on its back and struggling so hard to get back on its feet. Very cute.
跑回去想叫Dustin快點來放生這一窩新生小海龜,結果他跟三個人聊了起來(他跟他們借打火機並主動跟他們分享他的「飲料」),這晚是我首次感覺到墨西哥男人搭訕的直接…
I ran back with the intention of asking Dustin to come and set those newborn sea turtles free, but he started a conversation with three local guys (he borrowed their lighter and shared his "drinks" with them). It was the first time I felt how direct Mexican men are when flirting with women...
其中一個人會講法文,所以就叫我跟他練習,然後就一連串問了很多問題,都是在我長大的文化裡不該跟一個剛認識的人說的話題。比方說「你們兩個睡同一間房子但沒有上床?怎麼可能?要是讓我跟你這樣的女生住同一間房間我一定忍不住。」「你覺得墨西哥男人怎麼樣?願意跟墨西哥男人交往嗎?」「台灣男人是什麼樣子?墨西哥男人的床上功夫跟台灣/美國/歐洲男人相比怎麼樣?」而且因為我太久沒練習法文,大概只聽懂50%,不禁覺得還好只聽懂50%…
One of them speaks French and asked me to practice my French with him. He asked lots of questions, all of which are inappropriate subject matters to talk with a person you just met in the culture where I grew up. For example, "You and he are sleeping in the same room? And you don't have sex? How is that possible? If I sleep in a room with a girl like you, I can't." "What do you think about Mexican men? Are you willing to go out with Mexican men?" "What are Taiwanese men like? Who is the best in bed? Mexicans? Taiwanese? Americans? Europeans?" I was out of practice for too long, so I could only get perhaps 50% of what he was saying, and I was glad that I could only understand half of it...
後來他們三個終於告辭(其中一個喝了幾口tequila就在旁邊不醒人事了),我們也準備回家。沒想到沒走幾步看到這個:
Finally the three of them said goodbye to us (one of them had some tequila and then passed out on the bench), and we were ready to go home. Who knew that within several steps, Dustin spotted this:
正在產卵的母海龜!!!沒想到我們昨天的願望竟然這麼快就實現了,而且這是多難得的機遇啊。
That's right! A mother sea turtle laying eggs!!! Our wish last night just came true! How lucky we were and what are the odds to be able to see this in a lifetime!
把科學當作信仰的Dustin當然樂瘋了。我們一面看母龜產卵,生完以後用腳努力撥沙埋蛋,費了很多力的牠不時停下來喘氣,最後終於滿意爬回海裡。Dustin就牽著海龜一起游,剩下我一個人在岸上看東西,並希望他不要因為喝醉而游不回來。還好他平安又亢奮地回來了。
Scientist Dustin with science as his religion was crazy with excitement, joy, and happiness. We watched the mother sea turtle laying eggs, struggling to bury the eggs with sand, having to pause and pant because it was so laborious, and finally crawling back to the ocean with satisfaction. Dustin held the mommy turtle and swam to the ocean with her, leaving me watch our stuff on the beach. I was hoping that he wouldn't be too drunk to swim back (Your family is waiting for you!). Later he swam back, safe and still excited.
接著我們跑回產卵地作記號,再去叫醒當晚值班的救生員,一開始救生員還有點懷疑我們到底知不知道自己在說什麼,後來終於拿了竹竿跟桶子出來,我們帶他到作記號的地方,他很專業地觀察母龜的腳印,然後拿竹竿往沙裡戳,戳了幾次才戳到一顆蛋,然後開始挖沙,我們也幫忙挖。蛋被埋在沙灘下45公分左右的地方,沒想到母龜竟有那麼大的力量把蛋埋那麼深。救生員似乎一點都不擔心蛋會破掉,把蛋兩顆兩顆熟練迅速地裝到桶子裡,一共有104顆!!!再把蛋帶到保育區埋起來。能參與這整個過程真是太令人興奮了。45天之後我們的小海龜就會誕生了。
Then we ran to where she laid eggs and made a circle around it. We woke up the on-duty life guard. At first the life guard suspected if we really knew what we were saying, and then he finally came down with a stick and a bucket. We took him to the place, and he professionally first observed the footprints of the mommy turtle, and then he stuck the stick into the sand. After several tries, he found one egg. Then he dug the sand, and we helped him with it. Eggs were buried about 45cm below the sand. It was amazing how the mommy turtle would have all the strength to dig a hole that deep and then bury the eggs so well that if we hadn't seen her laying the eggs, we wouldn't be able to tell when we pass by the site at all. The life guard seemed not to be worried about breaking the eggs at all. He picked two eggs at a time and put them into the bucket nimbly and fast. There were 104 eggs in total! Then he buried the eggs in the conservation area. It was so amazing to take part in all of this. 45 days later, our baby sea turtles will be born.
之後救生員把新生小海龜塞給我們,我們得用捧的帶牠們去海邊。等了好久他們才全數慢慢投入海洋的懷抱。
The life guard gave us a bunch of the newborn sea turtles, so much that we had to hold them with both hands. This time, we waited for a long time for all of them to go into the embrace of the ocean.
對我來說這趟旅程實在太值得了,每天都有好多新的體驗。回到hostal時已經凌晨三點。
For me, this trip was so worth it! We had first-time experiences everyday. It was already 3am by the time we got back to the hostal.
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