這天在紫色宮殿的高級藍色牢房起床後，對於退房感到開心不已，因為廁所的狀況實在要把我逼瘋了…昨晚睡前去女廁尿尿，卻發現沖水又有問題（在基礎設施不好的墨西哥這問題很常見，基本上馬桶常常沒有座墊那一層，非常考驗大腿肌力，沖水水壓也常常過低，如果使用者沒有良心就會變成滿桶糞尿的狀態），馬桶裡有幾片屎，所以我直接跑去使用男廁。隔天起床要排尿竟發現女廁的屎更多了…
Waking up in our luxurious blue cell in this purple palace, I was very glad that we were going to check out soon, because the situation of the toilet was driving me crazy... Before going to bed last night, I went to pee in girl's room but found the flush didn't work (It's a common problem in Mexico where the infrastructure is still behind. It's often to see toilets without seats, a big test for your thigh muscle strength, and problems with the flush, so the sight of a toilet full of shit and urine is natural if users don't have any conscience.), and there were several pieces of shit in the toilet, so I went to use the guy's toilet. This morning when I wanted to deflate my bladder, I found more pieces of shit in lady's toilet...
一大早先去找Tim跟Gaby問開往海邊城鎮小巴的資訊，Tim翻了報紙上的分類廣告，抄給我們一些資料，Gaby跑去翻出他們的收據給我們看，我們問了方向以後就告辭了。
First thing in the morning, ask Tim and Gaby about the minivan to Puerto Escondido. Tim looked through the classified and wrote us some information. Gaby went to look for their minivan receipt to show us. After learning the directions, we said goodbye to them.
早餐依然是huarache，我們對昨天的豐盛美味早餐念念不忘，不過今天來得太早，酪梨還沒送到，所以老婦人用radish代替，又加了幾條乾癟的牛肉條，彌補份量稍微少過昨天的chorizo。不過今天咖啡送上的麵包好吃多了，是相當酥軟的菠蘿麵包。
Huarache was still our breakfast because we liked the breakfast the day before so much! However, we were there a bit too early, and the old lady hadn't got her avocados, so she replaced it with radish slices and put on some beef strips to make up for chorizo of a bit less amount. But the bread served with the coffee was much more delicious, crispy and soft, like the "bolo bread" that we have in Taiwan.
吃完以後解決了早晨大事，再把寫好的明信片拿去郵局寄，寄完才發現時間緊迫，Dustin問我還有20分鐘我們趕得上11:00開的巴士嗎？我說行。然後我們倆就瘋狂快走穿越大街小巷回旅館拿了行李退房（房間裡滿是前天晚上買的芒果的香味，根本還沒機會吃，只好拎到海邊去），再衝去滿是巴士公司那條街。馬上有兩個男人在路邊叫賣，一個人說150 pesos，另一個人馬上說130 pesos。Dustin要我先去150那家等他，然後他跑去看另外那家130的巴士，發現沒多少乘客，又是日本車（冷氣比較強），所以就跑回來帶我離開，但等我們氣喘吁吁跑過去時乘客已經快坐滿了，我們只好坐在倒數第二排。
After breakfast we finished our morning business, and then we went to post office to mail some post cards. Then we realized we were running late. Dustin asked me whether we could rush and make it to the 11:00am bus in 20 minutes? I said yes. So we were like crazy ants fast-walking through streets and alleys back to the hotel to check out (Our cell was imbued with mangos' smell. Hadn't got a chance to eat them and now had to take them with us to the beach.) and rushed to the area where minivan companies are. Two men saw us and quickly tried to sell us, one calling 150 pesos, and the other soon calling 130 pesos. Dustin asked me to wait at the 150 bus stop, and he went to see the other company. He found that there weren't many passengers and it was a Japanese minivan (better air-conditioning), so he ran back to take me there. Yet, when we got there out of breath, it was almost filled with passengers, so we had to take the second row from the back.
第一個小時都只是在附近的村子開，慢慢才開始開到山路，不過山路一旦開始，就真的九彎十八拐，而且司機就開始關掉冷氣打開窗戶，一車的人都很悶。幸好長大以後我就沒暈車的問題了，只是轉來轉去久了胸口也不舒服。好不容易到了中間休息處讓大家下車舒展，我趕快跑去放尿，但就像以前台灣公園裡的公廁一樣，硬要收錢給你衛生紙，因此被迫付了3 pesos。有一對母女非常不可思議，竟然還有胃口吃東西，而且一路上常常買零食吃。Dustin跟坐他前面的男子聊了起來，為了避免節外生枝，他就說我們是夫妻（可見墨西哥人還是很保守的）。
The first hour of our ride was in nearby villages, and then we gradually got to the winding mountain road. Once we got onto the mountain road, it got really winding and uncomfortable. In addition, the driver turned off the AC and rolled down his window, which made the whole van of people suffer. Luckily, I haven't had carsick after I grew up. But all the turning made my chest and stomach sick. We finally got to the middle point to stretch and relax. I took the opportunity to pee, but like some public restrooms in Taiwan's parks, I had to pay to the restaurant owner and get some toilet paper in return, 3 pesos. There was a mother and daughter who were incredible to me. They had the appetite to eat and kept buying snacks on the way. Dustin started to talk with the man who sat in front of him. In order to avoid any trouble, he said we were husband and wife (so we can say Mexicans are still very conservative).
總共大約六個半小時的崎嶇車程終於結束（挑我流血最多的一天坐小巴好像也是挺好的選擇，就不用拖著不適的身體玩耍了），我們也在黃昏抵達Puerto Escondido（一抵達馬上滿身黏膩，海邊的氣候跟山上差別甚遠）。Tim昨晚跟我們說離鎮上有段距離的衝浪客聚集地有很多比較便宜的旅館，所以我們叫了計程車往Playa Zicatela尋找住處，一路上看到極為美麗的夕陽正落向海洋，無奈住處還沒著落根本無心也沒辦法欣賞。
About 6.5 hours of winding ride finally reached the end (It was actually a good idea to travel on bus that day, since I lost most blood that day, saving me the trouble of draging a weak body around.), we arrived in Puerto Escondido at dusk. Once we got there, we soon felt the humid air, so different from the mountains. Tim told us farther from the downtown, where the surfers go, we can find more cheaper hostals. So we called a taxi to look for a place at Playa Zicatela. We saw the very beautiful sun setting into the ocean in the taxi, but we couldn't enjoy it since we hadn't found a place for tonight.
首先看了lonely planet介紹的Buena Vista，由於一進大門就是一排高聳的樓梯，我就在院子裡等Dustin進去問價錢，接著他又跑去附近幾家hostal問了價格回來跟我報告，我們最終選了Mondala hostal，裡面有很大的院子跟很多吊床，一看就是衝浪客的聚集地。職責類似經理的Daniel帶我們看了雙人房，我們挑了廁所燈沒壞的那間，由於Dustin的魅力再度發揮作用，Daniel算我們便宜一晚只要160 pesos。
We first went to Buena Vista, the hostal recommended by Lonely Planet. There was a long and high stairway behind the main gate, so I waited with all the luggage while Dustin went to check the rates. Then he went to several other hostals and came back to tell me the places and rates. We chose Hostal Mondala, where there's a big common area in the yard with lots of hammocks, and lots of surfers. Daniel, the guy whose position is like the manager there, showed us double bedrooms, and we chose the one with the functioning bathroom light. Because Dustin's awesomeness worked again, Daniel gave us a discount, 160 pesos per night.
我們房間的外面。天氣很熱，到了那邊趕快洗衣服，天天洗天天乾。
Outside our room. It was really hot, so I did laundry there everyday.
房間裡面（那幅畫是直接畫在牆上）。Dustin讓我挑床，因為小床上有好多被我誤以為是蟲子屍體的灰塵渣渣，我就得到大床。海邊蚊子很多，所以第三天晚上我就把蚊帳打開用了，Dustin防蚊子的方法是打開電風扇猛吹降低體溫，我每天早上醒來都會看到覺得冷而縮成一團的他。
Inside our room (that painting was painted on the wall). Dustin let me choose the bed. There was lots of dust which i took as bug corpses, so I took the bigger bed. There are lots of mosquitos at the beach, so I started to use the mosquito net from the third night. Dustin's strategy was to turn on the fan to blow him to lower his body temperature, so every morning I woke up and saw him curled up like a ball because of the cold.
還有我們非常滿意的浴室，只有冷水沒有熱水。因為天氣太熱了（每天都要沖上至少四次澡）。對我很喜歡那個黃色藍色的搭配，還有牆上那些痕跡。
Our very satisfactory bathroom. There was only cold water, no hot water. Who needs hot water anyway? It was so humid that we had to shower at least 4 times everyday. Yes, I like that yellow and blue a lot, as well as those marks on the walls.
太喜歡了所以一直拍。下午陽光照進浴室的樣子。
I couldn't stop taking pictures of it. On an afternoon, when sunlight entered the bathroom.
我們馬上沖澡，然後出去覓食。一面走一面覺得這裡的味道跟感覺都很像台灣，好希望所有我在乎的人此刻都可以在這邊跟我一起享受悠閒。我們走完整條街以後Dustin決定吃一整尾炸魚，因為Mango餐廳正好今天特餐就是一整尾炸魚，只要69 pesos。雖然我不太餓，卻覺得似乎不該錯過這麼好的機會，而且魚總比其他肉類健康，就跟著一起點了。菜來的時候我們倆都"哇"了一下，真是太划算了，除了一整尾炸魚，還有不少蔬菜跟飯，以及一籃麵包（不是一籃tortillas讓我們好驚訝）。
We took showers immediately and then went out for food. As we walked, I felt that everything here, the smell and else, was like Taiwan. I really wish everyone I cared could be there with me. We walked to the end of the main street, and Dustin decided to have a whole fried fish because it was the special at Mango restaurant, at only 69 pesos. Even though I wasn't really hungry, I thought I shouldn't let this chance go by, besides, fish is healthier than other meat, so I ordered a fried fish too. When it was served, we "wowed" because that was such a good deal, other than the whole fish, there was a good amount of vegetables, some rice, and a basket of bread (we were surprised that it wasn't a basket of tortillas).
大約一小時後…
About an hour later...
這頓飯要飽死我們了，我就逼迫Dustin跟我一起散步。我們先走到沙灘最東邊，再慢慢往西邊走，海浪非常兇猛，光是看著都令我害怕，不過也是很令人著迷的景象。後來Dustin看到政府立的警示牌，最下面一行寫了"Your family is waiting for you."，相當有力。本打算結束散步回去hostal的我們突然看到一圈被圍起來的地，原來是當地的海龜保育地。
This meal was big, and we got so full. I forced Dustin to take a walk with me. We first walked to the east of the beach and then walked back. The waves were ferocious. I was scared just by looking at them, but it was also a very fascinating scene. Dustin saw a warning sign that ends with "Your family is waiting for you." On our way back to the hostal, we found a part of beach circled by some nets. It was a sea turtle conservation area.
正好一個叫Pina的救生員經過，就跟我們解釋他們的工作，每天晚上騎沙灘車到處巡，如果看到產卵的海龜就會記下地點，等牠們產完卵後再回去把蛋挖出來，移到這個保育地埋好，45天以後蛋會孵化，他們晚上會把孵出來的小海龜放到大桶子裡，等隔天傍晚6:30再發給遊客放生。
A lifeguard called Pina came by to check the nest. He explained thier job to us. The on-duty lifeguard rides ATV around to see if there's any mother sea turtles laying eggs. They go back to dig out the eggs afterwards, and bury the eggs in the conservation area. 45 days later, eggs hatch. They collect newborn sea turtles and give them to tourists to set free the next evening.
世界上有八種海龜，其中七種都可以在墨西哥的海岸上發現。過去墨西哥人濫捕濫食海龜，導致海龜瀕臨絕種，現在政府就開始推行保育，做得還不錯。
There are 8 types of sea turtles around the world, and 7 of them can be found along Mexican coast. In the past, Mexicans caught and ate sea turtles. Now the government started conservation work.
Pina說如果我們想看小海龜，可以大概一小時後再來。
Pina said if we wanted to see baby sea turtles, we could come back an hour later.
一小時後…
An hour later...
孵出了好多小海龜，我們興奮地一直照相，吸引來一對情侶。女的是典型的愚蠢美國人，跟她說了拍照不要用閃光燈，免得傷到海龜的視力，結果她還是用了閃光，真想用閃光閃死她，賤貨。
Lots of baby sea turtles were hatched. We were so excited and took many pictures. A couple saw the excitement and came to see. The woman was a typical stupid American. We already told her not to use flash when taking pictures in case we hurt baby sea turtles' eyes, but she used flash anyway. Would love to flash her to death, bitch.
Pina竟然遞給我們一人一隻海龜，說我們可以帶海龜到離海水兩公尺左右的沙灘，讓牠們慢慢爬到海水裡。我們興奮地要命。
Unexpectedly, Pina gave us one baby sea turtle each, saying that we could bring them to about 2 meters from the waves to let them crawl into the ocean. We were super super psyched.
Dustin還幫他放生的小海龜取名叫Daphne。
Dustin named his baby Daphne (obviously was the name of a character in Nation the book).
這種海龜是Golfina，100隻小海龜只有2、3隻會長大，長大後會游向Alaska跟日本，母海龜懷孕後會游回原生海灘產卵，所以我們不能直接把牠們放到海水裡，要讓牠們在沙灘上爬一爬，記住原生沙灘。
These sea turtles are Golfina (Olive Ridley). Only 2 to 3 out of 100 little sea turtles survive. They grow up and swim to Alaska or Japan. After female sea turtles get pregnant, they swim back to the original beach to lay eggs. So we don't want to put them into the ocean directly, but want to let them crawl on the beach and remember their birth place.
放生小海龜的感覺很棒，真希望能看到母海龜產卵。
It felt really great to set free newborn sea turtles. We just wished that we could see mother sea turtles lay eggs.
附近有間很吵鬧的夜店，我們上去看了一下，結果Dustin就這樣碰到了原本預計要在Puerto Escondido見面的朋友Anthony！還有他那些白人哥們。他們住在朋友父母的海邊別墅內，一直熱情邀請我們去住，Dustin表面上說聽起來很棒，但決定權在我，但事實上他跟我一樣根本就不想去住在別人家，因為我們想要每天都自由行動，隨時想幹嘛就幹嘛，我最討厭跟一大群人來往，吃個飯還要挑大家都想吃的餐廳，做什麼事速度也都會變慢。
Nearby there is a noisy club. We went to see, and Dustin found Anthony (and other white guys that Anthony was with), the friend he was going to try to meet in Puerto Escondido! They stayed at a friend's parents' villa at the beach. They invited us to stay with them. Dustin said great, but he had to hear my opinion. But in fact, he didn't want to stay at someone else's place at all, like me. We wanted to be free of everything and did whatever we wanted. I've always hated to hang out with a group of people. There's that group conformity thing I hate. I want to eat at a place with the food I want to try or have. And groups always slow things down.
後來Dustin搭訕了三個漂亮的澳洲女生，只有一個金髮女孩比較正常友善，另外兩個都在狂發酒瘋，我看了只覺得厭惡，因為想起HOUSE裡面Cameron說過的話：酒精並不會改變一個人，而是顯現出一個人的本性。加上夜店一直放電音，到處都是白人，感覺就像來到無聊的美國夜店，所以我就提早告辭，一個人走回hostal先睡覺了。
Dustin successfully chatted up three young pretty Australian girls. One blond girl was normal and friendly, while the other two were drunk and acting insane. It disgusted and annoyed me. I remember what Cameron said in the TV show HOUSE, "Alcohol doesn't change people but reveal whom they really are." There was only techno music and white people everywhere, just like going to a boring club in the US, so I decided to go back to hostal and get some rest.
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