* Due to overwhelming amount of wrap-up work to do and finals to prepare and anxiety and pressure to deal with, it took me more than two weeks to finish this day, very atypical of me.
這天早上很興奮，因為終於要離開了。我去隔壁網咖買了咖啡，Dustin做了營養早餐給我。
I was very excited this morning because we were finally leaving. I went to the cafe internet for a cup of coffee. Dustin made me nutritious breakfast.
Hostal裡簡陋的廚房與大廚。
Mondala hostal's humble kitchen and the chef.
早餐後我們整理行囊準備離開。
After breakfast, we packed up and got ready to depart.
這段時間我愛上的活動。
My favorite activity during our stay.
抬頭就是藍天白雲椰子樹。
Looking up, there was the blue sky, clouds, and coconut trees.
我們離開時還早，大家都還在睡，有點可惜沒機會跟大家拍照。我們扛著行李揮別Daniel，在Mondala hostal前拍了幾張照片。
It was still early when we left, and everyone was still sleeping. It was a shame that we didn't take any pictures with the people we hung out with. We took our heavy bags and said goodbye to Daniel, taking a couple pictures in front of Mondala hostal.
走了好長的上坡，終於來到很不像公路的公路路邊，頂著豔陽等公車。等著等著來了一個男孩，他也要去Zipolite，後來我們就一起上了公車。
After a long uphill walk, we finally reached the roadside that doesn't look like somewhere we were supposed to wait for the bus. We waited in the sun. Then a boy came. He was also headed for Zipolite, so when the bus came, we all boarded.
搭破舊的公車實在很有旅途跋涉的感覺，坐我旁邊的男子有一台mp3，不斷放各種類型的音樂，我在一旁享受。整台公車都是藍色的，跟我當天的衣服和背包正好很配。
Taking a crappy bus gave me the feeling of travelling. The man sitting next to me had an mp3, and he kept playing all types of music while I enjoyed it half implicitly and half explicitly. The bus was in blue, coincidentally matching my clothes and backpack that day.
公車很妙，前門永遠不關，我一直很擔心前面坐在司機旁邊的男孩會不會一個煞車猛然跌出去…
The bus was... interesting... The front door was never closed. I was worried that the boy sitting next to the driver might fall out of the bus at sudden brakes.
剛剛在路邊跟我們一起等公車的男孩叫Eduardo，是個心地善良的好人，我看到他幫很多乘客拿重物，跟司機問清楚在哪下車後還跑來跟我們說。大約45分鐘後，我旁邊的男子聽到我們要去Zipolite，就很友善地提醒我要下車了。我們三人下車以後一起招了colectivo（類似貧民搭的計程車，就是一般小貨車後面裝了兩排板子讓乘客坐，如下圖，圖片來自http://tracyverdugo.wordpress.com/2008/12/）。
The boy who was waiting for the bus with us on the roadside is named Eduardo, a really kind-hearted person. I saw him carry heavy stuff for many passengers. He even came to inform us where we should get off after asking directions from the bus driver. About 45 minutes later, the man sitting next to me reminded me that we should get off since he overheard that our destination was Zipolite (another nice stranger!). The three of us got off the bus and got on a colectivo together. (Colectivo is like the taxi for the poor. A regular truck with two slates on both sides for passengers to sit on, as shown in the picture below.)
(picture is from http://tracyverdugo.wordpress.com/2008/12/)
上了colectivo以後我非常興奮，好有台灣鄉村的感覺，一路吹大風看風景好開心～
I was so excited to take the colectivo! It felt like I was in the countryside in Taiwan, with the wind blowing on my face and the neverending scenery.
我跟一路幫助我們、英文不錯的Eduardo。我繼續完美融入一片藍色裡。
Me and Eduardo, the nice guy who helped us all the way and speaks pretty good English. I continued to perfectly melt into the blueness.
後來上來了一個從荷蘭移居墨西哥的男子，話很多，也很友善。不斷有人對車子招手，乘客也就越來越多，似乎沒人擔心空間不夠，所以後來就擠成這樣…Eduardo人很好，攤販們一上車，他就起身讓位。
Later a guy who moved to Mexico from the Netherland got on the colectivo. He was talkative and friendly. More and more people waved at the colectivo, and more and more people got on it. It seemed that no one was worried about the space, so it ended up as crowded as the picture below... Eduardo was very nice, soon standing up and giving his seat/ space to the new passengers/ street vendors.
原來我們看到的那些流動攤販都是靠colectivo移動的。拍了站在我旁邊的小妹跟她的貨物。
Not until now did I know that colectivos are the transportation for street vendors. I took a picture of the little girl standing next to me with her merchandise.
另一個小妹。
Another little girl.
終於到了Zipolite，Eduardo仍然好心地在下車時幫我搬行李，然後一路帶我們走向他朋友待的hostal，雖然Dustin一開始想要往反方向走，但又覺得先去看看Eduardo想介紹的hostal也沒什麼關係，所以我們就跟著他走，來到一間就在海邊的平房hostal，靠海的一端是吧台，老闆、老闆娘跟他們的朋友就在那聊天，中間是公共活動區域，有帳篷區、吊床區和曬衣區，兩邊有幾間房間，有樓梯通往樓上，樓上似乎有更多吊床，不過我們始終沒上去所以不知道樓上到底是什麼樣。附近有不少工程正在進行，隔壁的家庭餐館還養了雞。穿著比基尼的嬉皮老闆娘馬上帶Dustin去看房間，Dustin要我在原地顧行李，不一會頂著龐克頭的老闆看到我就要帶我去看房間，我指了指行李，他露出一副根本沒人會動你行李的表情，我就只好遵命了。老闆帶我看了兩間雙人房，但裡面除了一張雙人床以外空空如也，我一個人也不可能做決定，就還是等Dustin跟老闆娘談完再說。雙人床房間一晚200 pesos，兩張雙人床就要350 pesos，但比起Puerto Escondido還是比較便宜，天氣又那麼悶熱，我們就決定不如舒服一點選兩張床。決定前我們有點猶豫，我跟Dustin說我可以在原地顧行李，等他去看過別的旅店再決定，不過可能因為天氣太熱、整個上午又跋涉得太累，加上我們以為Eduardo今晚也會待在這，Dustin這次沒有看過其他地方就決定住下來了。這一天晚上我們真是吃足苦頭，完全體驗到什麼叫做不謹慎的後果。而且不知道為什麼頂著龐克頭的老闆人非常暴躁，雖然我一看到他就發現他是我昨晚在Bazaar Babylon看到的鼓團表演者之一，卻完全不敢上前稱讚他…Dustin跟他聊天時，他問：「你會講西文嗎？」Dustin回答：「一點點。」（事實上Dustin西文根本很好，這趟旅程完全就是我的活字典，我想他只是謙虛）結果嬉皮老闆竟然說：「那我不想跟你講話了。」
因此我們後來給他取了綽號叫"憤怒嬉皮"。而且他跟Dustin推薦hostal的廣告詞很好笑：「我們這很棒呀，有四間廁所、兩間浴室、兩個光溜溜的小鬼快樂地跑來跑去。」哪有人把自己的小孩當推銷品的…
We finally arrived in Zipolite. Eduardo was still very nice, helping me moving my backpack when I got off the truck. He wanted to show us the hostal where his friends stayed at. Although Dustin wanted to see the opposite direction first, he didn't want to reject Eduardo, either, and thought it wouldn't hurt to just see the hostal that Eduardo wanted to show us. So we went with him and arrived at a hostal with only one floor by the sea. There's a bar at the end close to the ocean, and the owner couple were chatting with their friends there. In the middle was a common area with tents, hammocks, and strings and clothes. On two sides, there were several rooms. There was a ladder via which we could go to the second floor, and it seemed that there were a lot more hammocks on the second floor (maybe for backpackers or hippies who can't afford a real bed), but we never went up and still don't know what it was like. Some construction was going on nearby. The family restaurant next door even had chickens.
The hippie woman owner immediately showed Dustin around, and I was ordered to stay and take care of our luggage. Soon after the man owner with a punker hairstyle saw me and wanted to show me the rooms, so I pointed at the luggage, and he showed me the expression that said "no one's gonna touch your stuff." So I had no choice but to follow him. He showed me two rooms with nothing but one double bed. I couldn't decide since we always discussed before we chose a place to stay, so I wanted to wait until Dustin was done with the woman owner. 200 pesos a night for a double room, 350 pesos for a room with two double beds, much cheaper than Puerto Escondido. It was so humid, so we thought we might as well go for the room with two beds. We hesitated for a while before we decided. I told Dustin that I could stay and look after our stuff while he went to check out other places and then decide. However, it was probably too hot and we were too exhausted, plus we thought that Eduardo would stay here tonight as well, so we decided to stay here even though we hadn't checked any other places. We paid a dear price for that later that night and learned what consequences we had to face because of our own imprudence. Also, we didn't know why the man owner with the punker hairstyle was so grumpy (aren't hippies always happy and carefree?). As a matter of fact, I recognized that he was among the drummers whose band we saw the night before at Bazaar Babylon, yet I dared not go and tell him that they were really great last night... When Dustin talked to him, he asked, "Do you speak Spanish?" "A little." Dustin said. (In fact, Dustin speaks fluent Spanish, but he was being modest.) Unexpectedly, the angry hippie said, "Then I don't want to talk to you." So from then on we gave him the nickname "the angry hippie." The funny thing was that when he tried to sell his hostal to us, he told Dustin, "Yo, we got four toilets, two showers, and two happy naked kids running around." Who would use their kids as a selling point?
放下行李後我們又熱又渴打算去買水，我在路上直接再度買了剉冰飲料，然後逛到一間似乎不錯的hostal，老闆娘讓我們看過房間後，Dustin跟她講價，結果同意如果我們住兩晚就能優惠我們一晚350 pesos（本來400 pesos），跟剛剛那間嬉皮hostal一樣價錢，Dustin跟我商量要不要回去跟嬉皮取消，給他們50 pesos當作補償，直接搬到這裡來住兩晚，但我覺得這樣不妥，畢竟已經說定又放好行李了，就說不如我們跟這位老闆娘說我們只住明天一晚，但還是想把價錢壓成350 pesos。果然成功。我這人就是有奇怪的堅持跟道德感，當晚後來非常悔不當初…
We were hot and thirsty, so after putting down our luggage, we planned to buy some water. Before we did, I bought a cup of shaved ice. We saw a seemingly nice hostal, the middle-aged female owner showed us a room. Dustin bargained with her, and she agreed that if we stayed for two nights, she could offer us a discounted price at 350 pesos per night (400 pesos without discount), the same as the one we committed to. Dustin asked me if I wanted to give 50 pesos to the hippie hostal and cancel our room and move here for two nights, but I didn't like the idea; after all, we already said we'd stay there and put our luggage in the room. So I suggested we tell this lady that we'd only stay for tomorrow night but would still want the discounted price. It worked. Sometimes I just have this weird insistence and morals. Later that night I regretted a lot...
接著Dustin餓了我們就去了Eduardo介紹的Cafe Con Leche，牆上照舊是墨西哥風格，有很多塗鴉：
Dustin grew hungry so we went to Cafe Con Leche, the restaurant recommended by Eduardo. The walls were typically painted, very Mexican style.
Dustin點的午餐，30 pesos，還蠻豐盛的。
Dustin's abundant lunch, 30 pesos.
我非常口渴所以點了一杯Sol啤酒，然後五分鐘內就把它當汽水幹掉了。
I was very thirsty so only ordered a Sol (beer) and fininished it within 5 minutes (it tasted like a soda).
很好笑的菜單，想寫Happy Day卻寫成Hyppy Day，本來還能掰成嬉皮/快樂雙關，不過嬉皮的英文該是hippie；還有Tequila Sound Rise，一定是想寫Tequila Sunrise；總之是兩個好笑的錯誤。
Funny menu that mistakes "Hyppy Day" for "Happy Day." Well, it could be a pun of hippie/happy, but it should be "hippie" instead of "hyppy." Also, "Tequila Sound Rise" for "Tequila Sunrise." Two hilarious mistakes.
店裡有兩隻狗仔，好可愛。
There were two cute doggies in the restaurant.
喝完啤酒我去昏暗的廁所裡生了好多水分過多的小孩…
After the beer I went to give birth to lots of watery babies in the dimly-lit bathroom.
然後我們去買水，這是我們這趟旅程中最便宜的水，但也是最可怕的試驗…
Then we went to get water, the cheapest water during our trip but also the toughest test...
印象中好像有15公升，只要17 pesos，但簡直是肌肉男也受不了的磨練，何況Dustin又不是肌肉男而是（贅）肉男…辛苦你惹。
If my memories are correct, it was about 15 liters... at only 17 pesos. But it was so heavy that I doubt any muscle men could carry it without panting. And Dustin was no muscle guy... Thank you for the hard work!
接著我們在hostal前面的海邊玩了一會水（這裡的沙灘過斜很難游，浪一來就會覺得很容易被捲走，有點可怕），休息一下後就沿著海灘從西往東走。
We swam for a while in the ocean in front of our hostal (the beach is so steep and thus difficult to swim, making me feel that whenever the wave came, I'd be carried away... scary), and then headed towards east to explore the other side of the beach.
海灘很美，我想拍跳起來的照片，但是Dustin技術有夠差，拍了五次以上才成功，於是捕捉很多智障的動作…
This beach is really beautiful, and I wanted to take pictures of me jumping, but Dustin sucked at taking jumping pictures and didn't succeed until more than 5 tries. And therefore lots of stupid pictures of me...
比方說這個像在拉屎的預備動作…
Take this for instance, me appearing to be pooping on the beach...
還有這個好像在打功夫的動作…
Or this, me appearing to be doing some gongfu moves...
最後終於成功惹～連影子看起來都那麼開心！（不過一手拿拖鞋一手拿傘真是很蠢）
We finally made it. Even the shadow looked happy! (Yes I was aware that holding sandals in one hand and the umbrella in another was kinda stupid.)
可以看到海灘上插了很多紅旗子，意思就是海浪太危險叫大家不要戲水，黃色表示有點危險要小心，綠色表示安全。
We saw lots of red flags standing on the beach, meaning that the waves were too dangerous and people shouldn't go into the water. Yellow flags mean that it is somewhat dangerous and people should be careful, while green ones mean it's safe.
走著走著Dustin就因為太熱又跑下水游泳，結果一游完上岸沒多久，我們就看到幾個當地人拿著漁網在沙灘上跑，然後一撒網一拉上岸，竟然就補到好多魚。
It was scorching to walk in the sun on the beach, so Dustin went to swim in the ocean again (and perhaps shart in the water, he wasn't sure if it was just fart or shart...), and not long after he came up ashore, we saw several locals running on the beach with fishnets in hands. And soon, they caught many fishes.
幫忙撿魚的Dustin。
Dustin helped with picking up the catch.
還沒驚訝完，突然又有上千隻小魚就這樣出現在沙灘上，我完全沒看到這些小魚是怎麼上岸的（跳的？飛的？），所有人都瘋狂了。Dustin說這些魚很可能是因為他在海中的shart游來的…
I was still in the awe of the scene, and suddenly thousands of small fishes showed up on the beach too! I didn't even see how they got onto the beach from the water (jumped? flew?) Everyone went crazy! Well, Dustin believed they might have been attracted by his shart...
還有人直接脫衣服來裝魚…
Some even took of the clothes to hold fishes.
雖然我也很想抓，但畢竟我們沒有工具可以料理…只好作罷…
Although I felt the urge to catch some, we didn't have any tools to cook them... So I had to give up...
這是Dustin最愛的frigid bird，飛起來有點搖搖晃晃，好像不太會飛的樣子。
Frigid bird, Dustin's favorite bird. When it flies, it wobbles as if it didn't really know how to fly.
走到底端看到有個男的不顧危險跟救生員的警告兀自跳入海裡，救生員就騎著沙灘車去逮他。
When we almost approached the eastern end of the beach, we saw a man jump into the ocean regardless of life guards' warning. So life guards had to ride their ATV to get him.
再來是有人似乎衝浪衝到體力不支，救生員及早發現馬上騎著他們的海上摩托車去救人，還在海上繞了好幾圈，一面炫耀他們的乘風破浪技巧，一面搞摩托車噴水的花招。
Then someone seemed to be exhausted from surfing, but luckily the life guards discovered him soon enough and went to rescue him on their jet ski while showing off their skills by riding waves and making turns and having fun with making the tail water spit.
Dustin看了以後決定明天來這邊衝浪，因為這些救生員看起來非常專業，不過也擔心明天他需要救援時海上摩托車都沒油了…XD
Dustin decided to surf here tomorrow since these life guards all looked very professional, but he was also worried that there might be no fuel left in the jet ski when he needed rescue... XD
回來的路上我們看到一隻小螃蟹，就不斷抓牠，牠又不斷逃跑，最後都筋疲力竭到走不動了…好可憐~"~
On our way back, we saw a small crab and kept catching it but it kept escaping successfully. In the end it was too exhausted to walk... Poor little thing ~"~
傍晚我們就坐在海灘邊，我吃著從Puerto Escondido帶來的（昨晚買了卻沒胃口吃的）tlayudas，Dustin抽煙喝酒寫日記，蚊子很多，我們倆被咬得滿腳包。
When evening came, we sat by the beach. I finally ate the tlayudas that I bought in Puerto Escondido (but didn't have the appetite to eat it), and Dustin was smoking, drinking, keeping his journal. We were surrounded and attacked by many mosquitos.
越坐越涼我就想趁早去洗個澡，結果拿了換洗衣物跟毛巾走到浴室，一打開聽到裡面的男人叫了一聲，原來浴室是沒有燈的…頓時讓我失去洗澡的動力，想要尿尿又發現四個馬桶都滿是大便…想到睡前還要洗臉脫隱形眼鏡就覺得累，Dustin問了嬉皮女老闆有沒有燈之後，女老闆竟微笑回答：「我們沒有燈，但如果她怕的話我晚上可以陪她去。」我並不怕黑，我只是個需要光的大近視眼…
After a while it cooled down a bit, so I wanted to take a shower while it wasn't too cold. I took my clothes and towel to the bathroom. As soon as I opened the door, I heard a cry. There was a guy taking a shower inside, and there's no light in the bathroom... Suddenly I didn't want to shower anymore. I wanted to pee but realized that the four toilets were all full of shit, literally... I didn't even want to think about that I had to remove the makeup and contact lenses in the dark. Dustin asked the hippie woman owner and got the answer with a smile, "We don't have lights, but if she's scared, I can go with her at night." I wasn't afraid of the darkness; I was just a near-sighted girl who needed light...
沒澡可洗的我於是又回到海邊坐著，夜幕落下之後出現了好大好圓的月亮，但實在太難拍了。
Unable/unwilling to take a shower, I returned to sit by the ocean. The moon that night was so big and round, but it was so hard to take a good shot of it.
晚上我們在海灘上跟鎮上唯一一條街上走來走去，我們本來要聽rock/reggae表演的，不過到的時候太晚，reggae團結束換rock團上場，憤怒的rockers一開始讓人覺得特別，不過馬上就變得像周董一樣如出一轍了無新意，所以我們就閃了。Dustin在隔壁的攤子找到更好吃的魚tacos，我在幽暗無人的沙灘角落撇尿，還有在海灘上面對海浪撒尿。
At night, we walked back and forth on the only one main street in Zipolite. We wanted to see a rock/reggae show on the beach, but by the time we arrived it was already too late. The reggae band just finished their last song and the rock band went up. Angry rockers was fresh at the beginning but soon became too repetitive like Jay Chou, so we took off. Dustin found a stand that sold better pescados. I peeed in the dark corner where there was no one near and on the beach facing the ocean (since I didn't want to use any of the four toilets at our hippie hostal).
當晚回到房間後我們不管怎麼打開門窗還是很悶，躺上床後發現
1)我的床沒有被單
2)Dustin的床沒有枕頭
所以說我們幹嘛要付兩張床的錢卻只有一張床的配備…
3)我的床單上有沙
4)Dustin的床單上沒沙，因為沙子在他的床墊跟床單中間…
這時候我已經歇斯底里笑得停不下來了，但惡夢並沒有就此打住。
5)Dustin的蚊帳有兩個大洞，邀請蚊子來吃大餐…
Dustin趴在床上寫他的公主日記，我繼續大笑個不停。
6)Dustin覺得太熱所以去沖澡，結果沖完澡回來趴到床上繼續寫日記的時候，樓上有人走路太用力，把天花板的沙子都震下來，恰好就全落在Dustin還濕答答的背上…
我都快要笑到睡不著了。
When we returned to our room that night, even with the window and door wide open, it was still stuffy. And we went to bed and realize...
1) There was no blanket on my bed.
2) There was no pillow on Dustin's bed.
So why the heck were we paying for the price of two-bed room when there was just the facility for one-bed?
3) There was sand on my bed.
4) There was no sand on Dustin's bed. But there was sand underneath his sheet.
5) Dustin's mosquito net had two big holes, a warm invitation for all mosquitos to have a Dustin feast.
Dustin was lying with his belly down, keeping his princess diary on his bed, while I couldn't stop laughing about all this.
6) Dustin soon felt it was too hot and took a shower in the dark. When he came back to lay on the bed and continue writing his journal, somebody upstairs walked with heavy footsteps, and all the dust and sand fell off from the ceiling onto Dustin's still-wet-from-the-shower back...
I was laughing hysterically and couldn't fall asleep.
後來睡著了，但惡夢還沒結束。
Later we finally fell asleep, but our nightmare didn't end there.
天都還黑著，前院的公雞就開始啼個不停，真想衝出去把牠殺了，接著四處的建築工人就上工…墨西哥人不是都很懶的嗎？怎麼會清晨六點就開始上工了！！！（待續）
While it was still dark, the rooster in the front yard started to crow and never stopped. How I wanted to get up and get out to cut its throat or strangle it. And soon after that, the construction workers nearby started working... Aren't Mexicans lazy? Why would they start working around 6 in the morning!!! (to be continued)
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