耐性有限

第二天早上我們挺早就醒了，事實上Dustin根本一夜沒睡。起床後終於有精神洗澡，發現hostal的水沒有網路上遊客說得那麼小就放心了。

We woke up pretty early the next morning. In fact, Dustin didn't sleep at all. I finally gather myself and took a shower and felt relieved that the water wasn't trickling, as described by other travelers who had stayed here before.

我們前兩晚都在pochon hostal住的，由於在網路上預約被收了手續費，第二天早上我們就在hostal吃了他們準備的早餐想賺回一點本金。廚房裡有兩名婦女準備早餐，一個負責把水果切塊分裝成一碗一碗，另一個負責做omelette/ pancake，豆子加queso，此外非常水的咖啡、果凍跟麵包都是可以無限續的。這天早上不出所料地便秘了，所以默默決定要盡量吃辣的跟蔬果，希望不要整趟旅行都在便秘中度過，落得跟跑去日本玩結果一直便秘最後一天用力拉屎到中風的台灣大學女生一樣的下場…

We booked the first two nights at pochon hostal. Due to the booking fees charged by some shameless website, we decided to eat the breakfast they provided at the hostal. Two women were preparing in the kitchen, one cutting fruits into small pieces and placing them in a bowl, the other making omelettes/ pancakes, beans with queso. The very watery coffee, jelly, and bread were unlimited. As expected, I constipated that morning. So I decided that today I had to eat something as hot as possible or as many vegetables and fruits as possible, hoping that I wouldn't have to live with constipation during the whole trip, ending up like the Taiwanese college girl who went to Japan and constipated the whole time so tried to make some poop but tried so hard that she had a stroke and was sent to the hospital...

白天的Oaxaca Ciudad跟晚上很不一樣，車水馬龍、人聲喧鬧的，走沒幾步我們就發現一條顏色很鮮艷的小巷，開始瘋狂拍照。

During daytime, Oaxaca Ciudad looked very different from night time. Lots of traffic and all kinds of sounds. We found an alley filled with bright colors and started to take pictures.

又在自以為是亞洲明星了…

Dustin's pretending to be an Asian star again.

然後我們突然發現我的裙子的妙用，就開始瘋狂轉圈圈 （不過我還是比較喜歡我的相機的飽滿色調）。

And then we realized what my skirt could do, so I started to do circles (I prefer the intense hues captured by my camera more though).

走到底端有一個噴水池，到處開滿了紫色的花，牆壁上有好笑的句子："我想寫點什麼，雖然我不知道要寫什麼"

At the end of the alley, there were a fountain and lots of purple flowers. On the wall we found something funny written by someone unknown, "I want to write something, but I don't know what to write."

往Zocalo去的路上有很多路段都在施工，工人們頂著大太陽站在深深的溝裡勞動。但很奇怪的是幾乎沒有人穿著短褲，大部分人都相當保守，甚至在這麼熱的天還是穿長袖或外套。

On the way to Zocalo, we saw many roads in construction. Workers had to stand in the deep ditches, under the scorching sun. What was strange was that almost no one wore any shorts. Most people are very conservative and still put on long sleeves or even jackets in such weather.

才剛到新環境不敢做出不雅動作（鑽到女人偶裙子下面）拍照的Dustin。

Dustin wanted but dared not make obscene posture (getting under the woman figurine's skirt) to take a picture because we were still new to town.

後來我天天經過發現這些空瓶子天天都在這。

Afterwards, I passed by everyday and found that these empty bottles were here everyday.

終於來到Zocalo，報攤。

The kiosk in Zocalo.

在廣場走來走去發現有一群家長拿著相機圍繞著小孩，似乎是某種化裝舞會。

We strolled in Zocalo, finding a group of parents holding cameras at their children. It seemed like some costume party in the morning.

這隻長頸鹿異常愉悅活潑，老遠就看到他的長頸鹿頭隨著他的舞步上下晃呀晃的。

This giraffe was extraordinarily joyous and lively. We could see his giraffe head dangling along with his dance from a distance.

這天的行程就是了解市中心，觀察路人，品嚐美食。我們發現一間位置很好的hostal（我們前兩晚住的地方走到廣場要15分鐘），就在菜市場隔壁，而且進去參觀以後發現採光好、充滿開放空間、價格又比我們原本住的便宜10 pesos，當場真希望可以退掉我們住的地方直接搬過來…

Our agenda for today was to know about Zocalo, people watching, and food. We discovered a hostal with excellent location, right next to the market (pochon hostal is about 15 minutes by walk from Zocalo). We went inside and liked the open common areas, the natural lighting, and the price (10 pesos cheaper than pochon each). I wished that we could just move to this hostal right away...

我們打算隔天要去看世界著名的古文化遺跡Monte Albán，所以四處打聽了半日/一日遊的行程。

We planned to visit the world-famous ruin site Monte Albán the next day, so we asked around how much the tours cost and about the transportation.

結果走著走著我還沒消化完早餐，Dustin竟然就嚷著要去吃午餐了…所以我們走進傳統市場，先繞幾圈看各家菜單，順便看那一攤的本地客人最多（因為這樣通常表示味道道地而且價格實惠），最後挑了一家顧客前腳才走座位馬上被補上的店面，坐下來點了Oaxaca最出名的醬料mole料理。Mole是以多種香料製成的醬料，有黑、紅、綠、黃四種，墨西哥人也喜歡把mole加到巧克力裡增添風味。Dustin點了mole negro，我點了mole rojo，配上一塊雞肉跟一些飯（非常好吃的飯，雖然不像我們的米很黏，而是鬆鬆散散的，但似乎煮的時候加了蒜末，香得要命），還有一盤吃也吃不完的tortillas（一盤大概五六片，我們各吃兩片就差不多了，但是墨西哥人可以吃完一盤再續一盤）。

By the time when Dustin said he wanted to have lunch, I was still trying to digest my breakfast. So we went to check out traditional markets. There are two markets, one selling non-cooked food products, and the other mostly food stands. We walked around to see everyone's menu and observed which one had the most local customers (because it usually means that they make good authentic Mexican food at cheaper prices), and we picked a restaurant where vacant seats are quickly filled by the next customers and ordered the well-known mole dish. Mole is a sauce made from many spices. There are four types of mole, mole negro, mole rojo, mole verde, and amarillo. Mexicans also like to put mole into chocolate for flavor. Dustin ordered mole negro, I mole rojo. It came with a piece of chicken and some rice (Very good rice, not as sticky as the rice in Taiwan/ Asia, but rather loose. They seemed to add garlic powder when cooking the rice, so the rice had an appealing flavor.), and a plate of never-ending tortillas (There were about 5 or 6 in one plate. 2 for each of us was about the limit, but Mexicans could finish a plate easily and ask for more).

中間那碗白白像稀飯的是我點的atole，墨西哥人用來配早點的熱飲，其實就是甜甜的燕麥粥，很不錯。這樣一餐只要45 pesos（25/mole，5/atole）。

The bowl of white soup is my atole, the hot drink that goes with breakfast. It's actually sweet oatmeal. I like it a lot. This meal only cost us 45 pesos (25 pesos/ mole and 5 pesos/ atole).

隔壁是雞攤，墨西哥的雞天生都是黃皮膚～非常酷，雞肉吃起來比美國雞肉好吃多了，比較有彈性。

Next to this stand is a chicken stand. Mexican chickens are naturally of yellow skin. It tastes a lot better (chewier) than American chicken.

菜市場裡面的模樣。

Inside the market.

市場外面的攤子。

A stand outside the market.

吃完以後Dustin跑去隔壁菜市場（以各種非熟食商品為主）買了釋迦口味的冰沙（20 pesos），要價有點過高。我在廣場上買了一杯酸梅口味的挫冰（10 pesos）。

Afterwards, Dustin went to buy some fruit smoothie (20 pesos), kinda expensive. I bought a cup of shaved ice with tamarindo flavor (10 pesos).

然後我們又在炎熱的廣場上晃來晃去，廣場上的大教堂，到處都有像右下角那樣的婦女頂著商品四處叫賣。

Then we roamed the plaza again. We could see women carrying their merchandise walking around and trying to sell stuff everywhere, like the woman in the bottom right.

晃到Dustin想放尿，就跑去廣場邊上一家餐廳點了啤酒，繼續觀察路人。

Dustin wanted to pee, so he ordered a beer at a restaurant by the plaza, and we continued to watch people.

很酷的喝法，先在杯子邊緣抹上一圈辣椒粉，再把啤酒倒進玻璃杯裡，喝的時候就又清涼又辣～

It's a cool way of drinking beers. First you put some chili power on the brink of the glass, and then you pour the beer into the glass, so when you drink your beer, you can taste it cold and spicy.

過一陣子不可思議的事又發生了，Dustin又想吃東西了，所以我們又走進菜市場讓他吃了early dinner: enchiladas（35 pesos）。

After just a while, something incredible happened again... Dustin wanted to eat again! So we went to the market, and he had an early dinner: enchiladas (35 pesos).

然後再回到廣場上休息，看人生百態。廣場上滿是擦皮鞋的先生跟他們的特製椅子，賣各種紀念品的婦女和小孩，墨西哥人一般來說生活很苦，所以只要會走路的小孩就要出來賣東西。休息的小女孩跟弟弟在噴水池玩水。

Then we went back to the plaza to chill out and watched people. There were lots of shoe-shiners and thier special chairs, women and children selling all kinds of souvenirs. Overall, most Mexicans are still very poor, so as soon as a child can walk, they should go out and help earn some money for their family. The little girl was playing water by the fountain with her brother during her break.

突然間聽到音樂還有一陣騷動，我們才發現原來是遊行，各個團體穿上代表性的服裝。

Suddenly we heard music and commotion, and then found out that people were having a parade with different groups in representative costumes.

隊伍漸漸離去後，一個穿著傳統服裝的小女孩拿了一個小杯子要我喝，我以為她想推銷什麼就搖搖手，望向Dustin，他叫我喝，結果我嚇一跳，本來以為是類似寺廟裡面的聖水，結果竟然是這裡有名的酒mezcal，小女孩看我被嗆到的表情非常開心。

When the parade was gradually leaving, a girl in traditional clothes showed me a small cup and invited me to drink. I thought she wanted to sell me something, so I waved my hands and looked at Dustin. But he told me to drink it. It surprised me, for I thought that was some holy water, like the one we have in temples, but it was actually mezcal! Seeing me choked and surprised, the little girl smiled.

遊行散去。

After the parade was gone.

再來一張教堂晚照。

The church at sunset.

然後輪到我肚子餓了，就走回菜市場選了一家店吃quesadillas（15 pesos），一端上來時我都呆了，只是一片對折的tortillas夾了一些乾巴巴的牛肉，賣相差到我連拍照都懶得拍了…不過吃起來還可以，不難吃。

And then it was my turn to hunt for food. So we walked back to the market to order enchiladas at another stand (15 pesos). I was shocked when I saw my enchiladas because it was just a folded dry tortillas filled with some dry beef strips. It looked so ugly that I didn't want to take a picture of it... It tasted ok. At least I filled my stomache.

吃完以後我的甜點胃開始叫，我就在路邊攤買了三個小甜點，其中兩個卡式達醬糕點裡面的卡式達醬根本就不是卡式達醬，差不多可以說是卡式達果凍了…白色的鮮奶油倒還可以，然後糕點主體乾硬不酥軟，吃得我萬分後悔。Dustin說墨西哥人的料理的確可算世上前幾名有特色的，不過糕點部份根本就是屎！根據我的親身體驗我只能說「真的！」

After dinner, my dessert stomach started to make sounds, begging for some treats, so I bought three little pastries at a streetstand. Two of them were filled with custard that was nothing close to custard at all... it was almost custard jelly! The white thing like whipped cream was ok. And the pastry itself was dry and hard and not crispy or soft at all. I ate every morsel with regrets. Dustin said Mexican food is definitely one of the best in the world, but Mexicans' pastry is shit! Based on my personal experience, I could only say "That is so true!"

接著我們在一間有許多當地居民消費的小超級市場買了大瓶礦泉水，Dustin買了很多酒，然後漫步回遙遠的hostal結束悠閒的一天。

After that, we bought drinking water at a small supermarket where many locals shopp, and Dustin purchased lots of alcohol, of course. We walked back to our remote hostal, and that was the end of our relaxing day.